A very nice pair of Retro 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the stirrup (“etrier”) popularized by Cartier. During the war years, even the most exclusive European jewelers frequently used synthetic rubies and sapphires because natural material simply wasn’t available. The square cut stones are channel set along the sides of the cufflinks, and a single stone is collet-set at either end of the closing mechanism...

Maestro Velazquez is one of my favorite early Mexican silversmiths. Based on the hallmarks on his work, he was most probably based in Mexico City and his creations are almost always in the so-called Mexico City style of repousse. Very well made and carefully finished, this figural fish brooch is also characterized by a fun, cartoon-ish air that will put a smile on your face every day of the year...

Outstanding vintage Art Deco/Retro Moderne horse form figural brooch in ebonized carved wood with inlaid silver detail. Circa 1945. Unsigned, most likely by Elzac Inc., which produced jewelry from materials such as ceramic, Lucite, fur, feathers, cloth, and wood during World War II when other materials were in short supply.

With an embedded pin back and with silver decoration, including beads around the collar and along the mane, and thin wires above and below the beads around the collar...

Very much in the style associated with Matilde Poulat and often referred to as "Mexico City repousse" this sweet little silver "serpent scales" bracelet is adorned with an amethyst cabochon in its central station. An early example of this "school", it is an honest attempt to emulate the "grand dame" of Mexican silver jewelry albeit in a more demure, smaller scale than most of Matl's work...

Elegant peaked link necklace in 940 silver by Mexican silversmith Hector Aguilar. This necklace is a choker style that sits perfectly on the neck and terminates with a hook closure. It is 14 1/2" end to end and the links are 1" wide and 7/8" long. Surprising hefty, it weighs 123 grams and is in fine original condition. Signed with the 1940-48 Aguilar hallmark as shown. A very wearable and beautiful piece.

A handsome pair of sterling silver cufflinks by Georg Jensen. The rectangular faces are severely designed in the Art Deco style, with only a series of parallel raised bands as decoration. The solid connectors are attached to hinged oval backs. The cufflinks are marked with the pattern number 80 and bear post-1945 Jensen hallmarks.

Origin: Denmark, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/16" x 3/8". Weight: 15.6 grams.

Bearing the signature of maestro Barrera this carefully made figural brooch depicts a richly clad person, most probably a nobleman or priest, with hands forming a very distinct gesture as if he takes part in a ritual or is performing a dance. Barrera , I suspect, worked in Mexico City, and created some impressive jewelry in the style associated with it...

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces formed from faceted rhodolite garnets of unusually large size centering old European cut diamonds. The purplish-red hue of the garnets contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting and the white diamonds (G, VS2). The backs are finished with toggles. The connectors are stamped with French marks for 18K gold and with the goldsmith's mark (entered in 1913) for the Parisian jeweler Leon Favrin.

Origin: France, ca. 1940...

A vintage 18K yellow gold heart-shaped pendant/charm, the border set with alternating cushion cut Burmese rubies and old mine cut diamonds. Like most Retro pieces, the large size has great presence. The rubies have fine, bright red color and VS clarity, and display all the characteristics of Burmese rubies. There are no indications of heat or other treatment. The diamonds are of similarly fine quality, graded as I color, SI clarity. The bail is marked “750” for 18K gold...

A wonderful, generously-sized Retro period 14K yellow gold charm or pendant depicting a spaniel. The dog is finely detailed and is offset with sparkling blue sapphire eyes. Ruser, the foremost Beverly Hills jeweler of his time, was a favorite of Loretta Young and Joan Crawford. His famous line of poodle jewels were inspired by Crawford's poodles. Other breeds of dogs are exceedingly rare. The back is marked "14K" and is signed "Ruser."

• Origin: America, ca...

A figural repousse Mexican Deco brooch in sterling silver this "portrait" piece bears the signature of early Mexico City maestro M. Velazquez. Over the years of my love affair with vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I have come to know and appreciate Velazquez's work for its "earthiness", its craftsmanship and the interesting designs he created. The specific "mask" motif I have had a few times in the past in necklace, ring and brooch forms but always anonymous...

Maestro C. Molina is one of those “enigmatic” figures of Mexico’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Even in Bille Hougart’s seminal work on hallmarks and makers there is minimal information about him - namely, two or three examples of the way his jewelry is hallmarked and the photos are really difficult to read...

Two different sizes of sterling silver barrel beads adorned with a myriad of hand-made florets in the Etruscan style make up this generously long Mexican lariat necklace from the pre-1948 period. I am very partial to long necklaces and lariats are a small obsession of mine. When I am lucky enough to come upon an Etruscan example as the one presented here, my heart skips a beat. Just like the one I offered last summer, this lariat was also made in Cuernavaca, one of Mexico's main silver-smithing ...

One of my favorite “less celebrated” early Mexican maestros, AEM (or AE Heart as he is also referred to because of the way he signs his work) had his workshop in Mexico City and he created some really nice pieces. It has been a long time since I presented something by him but this set of “mesh and bead” dangle earrings more than compensates for the gap. This type of “mesh” or “chainmail” designs is an area where AEM excelled and I am very happy for having come upon these earrings...

Incredible very dimensional carved bangle with rose, leaf, and floral motifs. The floral motifs have "worm" style carving around the center flowers. Circa 1935. Tests positive for Bakelite. Guaranteed vintage and original. Standard 2 1/2 inches inside diameter, 15/16 inch wide, and 7/16 inch thick. Excellent condition. Photos enlarged to show detail.

A heavy Retro bracelet in 14K yellow gold set with amethysts by Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is designed as large arched links, each centered by rectangular step-cut amethyst. The stones have vivid violet coloring and excellent brilliance, without the color zoning that sometimes mars amethysts. The clasp is stamped Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is presented in its original leather and silk box.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32†wide; 7†long. Weight...

One of the classiest and most classic Mexican Deco jewelry designs, the "shield" necklace is associated with the names of Fred Davis and Abraham Paz but has also been made by other, contemporary maestros both anonymous and "less celebrated". Our sterling and dyed green calcite example belongs in the latter group but, as I have pointed out many times in the past, its "anonymity" does not take away at all from its craftsmanship and good looks. I am fascinated by the myriad of ways in which calcite...

Circa pre-1948, this bracelet was produced by M. Velazquez. Velazquez was known for his superb repoussé silver work, and this piece is a killer example. Composed of five floral panels, each with a coral center, the design is elaborate and speaks to the amazing skill of this artisan. The center panel is 1 5/8" wide, and this bracelet measures a closed, wearable length of 6 7/8". Seamless when closed. Deep, rich patina. Signed and hallmarked M. Velazquez Made in Mexico 925. Weight is 54.1 gr...