Impressively long and beguilingly slick with its glowing tapering dangles half-hiding a bullet-shaped piece of black onyx, this is one of Antonio Pineda’s most eye-catching set of earrings. Simple yet visually strong lines that re-affirm the philosophy of less-is-more in the world of adornment; smooth as silk, dancer-like motion; fleshy geometry (if you allow me the word combination), all come together and become a piece of wearable art in the hands of Mexico’s modernist magician...

One of the techniques the Los Castillo workshop pioneered, “pluma Azteca” uses dyed bird feathers as inlay to adorn jewelry and other decorative items. Quite impressive in their colorful vibrancy, the feathers can also be vulnerable, especially when they are left exposed, resulting in a rather small number of “pluma” jewelry having survived over the years. The articulated torque-type necklace at hand is a wonderful exception...

Playing the violin with abandon as is evident by their determined expression, Margot de Taxco’s “musician putti” come here in earring form which is a rather rare occurrence. The specific angelic musician is usually found hanging off Margot’s charm bracelet of the same design, one out of a band of nine, and even though I have had the bracelet a few times in the past, this is the first pair of earrings I have found...

A classic Venetian Etruscan 18K gold charm set with oval amethysts. The gold surfaces are ornately worked with rosettes, beaded and rope-twist decoration. The amethysts have nice intense violet color that contrasts beautifully with the surrounding gold. Charms of this type are usually extremely large, but this example is in a rare smaller size that’s easier to wear on a bracelet or as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca...

The combination of fine, high purity silver and moonstone is one of my favorite and was equally favored, it seems, by Antonio Pineda, Taxco's renowned modernist. Set in three-dimensional 970 silver settings the stones at hand have a luminous pearlescence that draws the eye into their magical depths, and perfectly reflect the warm glow of the precious metal surrounding them. Antonio's jewelry is characterized by an unfailing sense of easy luxury and that feeling is present here as well...

A rather rare design - I have never encountered it before - by Enrique Ledesma, this pair of earrings brings to mind classical representations of the Aztec Sun Disk yet, in fact, the figure centering them is Tlaltecuhtli, one of the Mexica Earth deities, often referred to as the Earth Monster...

A retailer active in the 1930s and 1940s, Ingrid's was - according to Bille Hougart - known for their high quality hollowware and jewelry which they commissioned from the best Taxco maestros...

Maestro Mateo of Taxco is known among vintage jewelry collectors for his modernist, mostly brutalist, ring designs. His work is sought after for its quality, the beauty of the stones he incorporates in his pieces and the strong sense of tension that his rings exude. His career strides the divide between the so-called Eagle mark period and that of the T-marks and, in my experience, he is one of the very few silversmiths who used .950 alloys before they became the norm in the 1980s...

In the years I have been buying and selling vintage Mexican silver jewelry I have seen many "mask" pieces - this is, after all, one of the "pillars" in the genre's design index and I am also very partial to it and always on the look out for good examples. I have to also admit that seeing jewelry of a certain kind over and over again makes one a little more blasé and hence, more difficult to impress. Yet impressed I was with this astounding combination pin / pendant I am presenting here...

This pre-1948 bracelet is a Fred Davis design, here hallmarked simply "Mexico Silver". Composed of six large silver panels, each set with a large amethyst cabochon, this bracelet measures a closed, wearable length of 7 1/2" with a width of 1 3/8". Weight is 67.7 grams. Fold over clasp gives this piece a seamless appearance. In excellent vintage condition. Stones are gorgeous, perfectly matched in color

Circa mid-century, this Antonio Pineda cuff is a book-piece design shown in "Silver Seduction: The Art of Mexican Modernist Antonio Pineda". Pure eye candy, this concave cuff features nine conical amethysts which appear to be floating on a center pivoting arm. The amethysts are wonderful old Mexican stones with natural inclusions and quartz marbling. This will fit a smaller wrist. Mine is 6" and it fits me comfortably with room to spare. It is not adjustable in size...

One of the best "manufacturers" of silver jewelry and holloware in Peru Industria Peruana created some amazing "Inca Revival" (if I am permitted the term) pieces around the middle of the 20th c. when Graziella Laffi was also active. Their designs are beautifully executed with crisp detail and careful finishing and very often it is Peru's rich history that provided the motifs...

Maestro C. Molina is one of those “enigmatic” figures of Mexico’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Even in Bille Hougart’s seminal work on hallmarks and makers there is minimal information about him - namely, two or three examples of the way his jewelry is hallmarked and the photos are really difficult to read...

One of the most talented, innovative maestros of Mexico’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Jose Luis Flores created some amazing designs that were sold not only under his own name but bore the hallmarks of Miguel Martinez, Emma Melendez and Rubi Ramirez as well...

Extraordinary vintage sterling and red coral petit point earrings by Zuni Edith Tsatbetsaye , circa 1970. Many silversmiths created petit point pieces but this silversmith took the art to an extreme. The slender marquis petite points are cut with a semi-circular high domed arch that is her trademark. These earrings measure 7/8" by 3/4" and have posts for pierced ears. They are in fine original condition , weigh 6 grams total and there are no missing stones and no chips or cracks to any stone. Si...

I am a big fan of Carmen Beckmann’s Etruscan style jewelry - her domed Etruscan ring is a foundational piece in my collection and I enjoy it thoroughly. There is something about the way the wire-work and tiny florets with their bead centers oxidize with time that creates an air of warm, comfortable luxury around them that gets me every time. I could easily see the dangle earrings at hand worn by dignified Roman matrons leisurely enjoying their honeyed wine. Measuring 1 1/4” long by 1 1/8” ...

The size of Pendant: 1"L x 7/8" W x 5/16" H
The size of Opal: 5/8" L x 3/8" W x 1/4" H (18mmx10mmx7mm)
The length of Silver chain 18 1/4" Long
Material of Stone: Mexican Fire Opal in oval shape design.
This is Beautiful Mexican Fire Opal mounted on artist made as Pendanton
Sterling silver base. It is signed on the back as, BG engraved, artist name.
It has Sterling marking on necklace chain.
Age of pendant and necklace not known but at least
30 years old. P...

Delicate and quite romantic with their Spanish Colonial bows and a half-hidden heart motif this set of Los Castillo earrings is elegant and nostalgic at the same time. Crisp finishing and a beautifully glowing patina complete the "package" - I will let the photos say the rest while I provide the specifics: 1 3/8" long by 1 1/8" wide, weighing 11.2 grams (for the set). Fully signed with maker's name as well as "TAXCO" and Eagle 15 assay mark. The set dates in the 1950s-60s and is in excellent vin...

Breath-taking both in proportions and its masterfully executed repoussage this sterling silver Mexican Deco belt buckle is simply unbelievable. Its two mirrored parts represent Quetzalcoatl, the divine Moesoamerican Feathered Serpent, a motif which appears quite often in vintage Mexican silver jewelry. I have seen this specific design in buckle form signed by Doris in the past - my example is hallmarked yet not for maker and though the lack of signature is always vexing, it does not at all affec...

Attributions are a difficult issue in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry - they are almost never accepted. If a piece is not signed, it’s just not signed! In this case, however, I will put my years of experience behind my suggestion that the necklace I am presenting here is the work of Reveriano Castillo. When I acquired it, it had no clasp and since the specific Reveri design is usually marked exactly there, the connection to its maker was lost. I had my jeweler craft a fold-over cla...

I am very partial to hinged bangle bracelets - you get the best of both worlds with them! - and I am very attracted to the Portuguese repousse examples. Signed by Topazio, the country’s foremost manufacturer of silver holloware and decorative items, there is something quite “regal” about this piece. Surrounded by scrolls and foliate motifs the dominant design here is a royal crown. It is repeated in all eight facets in high relief and looks even more sculptural thanks to the patina that ha...

Bearing the signature of Pedro Castillo who opened his own workshop in 1940, after having worked for both William Spratling and Hector Aguilar this early Taxco modernist necklace is made using the overlay technique which has also been enhanced by purposeful oxidation. Perfectly finished, it has generous weight and at just a hair less than 16", it is not only a gorgeous piece to wear but it is quite comfortable. Let me end by saying that its abstract design, so representative of Taxco's early mod...

One of Taxco's most famous modernists Sigi Pineda was also a very prolific designer and at his best moments, truly inspired. I am used to seeing minimalist, fluid pieces by him and the brooch at hand, wrought in sterling silver and adorned with a teardrop-shaped obsidian, is the result of a good moment indeed. This is a pin that invites the touch unabashedly - it might be the glowing silver body; it might be that magical piece of obsidian with its silvery depths but it simply invites the fingers...

Lovely vintage sterling and moonstone ring by Georg Jensen Denmark. This has an early Jensen hallmark, dating it 1915-30. The ring is a size 8 3/4 but can be sized. Weighing 5 grams, it is in fine original condition with hallmarks as shown. Charming.

Bearing the signature of Sanborn’s, the legendary Mexico City department store’s over whose antiquities and fine arts division Fred Davis was a supervisor in the mid-1930s, this wide, exuberant cuff bracelet is a classic for the genre. Repousse cuffs of this style came to be closely associated with Sanborn’s and Maciel though they were made by other, anonymous and “less celebrated” makers as well. The “Aztec Rose” design that covers the entirety of the bracelet’s surface here mus...

A magnificent and rare sterling and striped agate bracelet by Bent Knudsen, Denmark, circa 1950. The highly polished striped agate stones absolutely pop and the oval shape is a great contrast in design to the alternating square links with cut out circles. The bracelet measures 7 1/4"-7 1/2" around in the inside when closed and is 1 3/4" wide. It weighs a very hefty 137 grams. The original safety chain is intact. Fine original condition, no chips or cracks to the stones. This bracelet may have ne...

An applied shimmering sterling double boomerang, riveted on the highly polished and oxidized body catches the eye in this vintage Mexican silver bracelet by renowned Taxco modernist Enrique Ledesma. A successful marriage of the link and bangle forms, it is made up of three articulated “wings” and when worn maintains is circular shape perfectly. It’s been a while since I offered an example of this specific Ledesma line and I am very happy to be presenting this piece today. An erudite illust...

One of my favorite “less celebrated” early Mexican maestros, AEM (or AE Heart as he is also referred to because of the way he signs his work) had his workshop in Mexico City and he created some really nice pieces. It has been a long time since I presented something by him but this set of “mesh and bead” dangle earrings more than compensates for the gap. This type of “mesh” or “chainmail” designs is an area where AEM excelled and I am very happy for having come upon these earrings...

A retail shop in Taxco, Margarita was a place were one could buy jewelry by many local maestros, according to Bille Hougart. The long, beautifully made dangle earrings presented here bear only the shop’s name without a specific maker’s signature yet this does not affect their quality at all. Obviously hand-wrought with deeply chased details that have been oxidized to add depth to the design, the set combines scroll and feather motifs with beading and glows with the silky patina of a life wel...

Made in Mexico City and following the “Matl school of repoussage” this early Deco silver and turquoise bracelet is anonymous and … gorgeous. Textured repousse feather motifs are predominant here, an allusion to the divine Feathered Serpent of ancient Mesoamerican civilizations. I have always thought that this specific type of work that allows you to follow the maestro’s hand as it works the silver could easily be considered Mexico’s Arts and Crafts expression. Here the articulation of ...

Spanish Colonial in inspiration with their heart-shaped wire-work and tiny little beading this set of sterling silver and amethyst dangle earrings is a Mexican Deco treasure. Securely set in their bezels, full of inclusions that shroud their depths in mystery, the stones are carved in the shape of leaves which hang off richly colored amethyst cabs. Big, bold, beautiful yet also so romantic and full of nostalgia. Measuring an impressive 2” long by 1” wide the earrings weigh 20.6 grams (for th...

The "Silver by Tono" hallmark dates this supremely rare piece 1948-1953. This is a book-piece design, shown on p. 89 of Silver Seduction. Composed of two fuchsia flowers with hand-carved jade along with leaves, the larger flower dangles to allow this pin different looks depending on how the pin is hung. Measures 3 3/8" tall, 2 3/4" wide. Weight is 36.7 grams. Signed and hallmarked "Silver by Tono Mexico", along with the eagle assay 17. Collector quality, in excellent vintage ...

Striding the divide between classic Mexican and Native American / Southwestern design this sterling silver bracelet is one of the most beautiful examples of the “marriage” I have seen. This hybridization is not, in fact, accidental as it is known from the relevant literature that Mexican maestros were a significant factor in the development of Native American silversmithing. The hinged bangle at hand has its front “wing” stippled and chased with a ribbon design and upon it the anonymous ...

The "queen" of shadowbox designs, Victoria - otherwise Ana Maria Nunez de Brilanti - also excelled in the "married metals" technique. Her work is inspired, of the highest quality and today it is considered part of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance design index. The adjustable sterling silver ring I am presenting here is out of her coveted "angel" parure. The form does not come up very often and I am happy to have come upon a beautifully aged example. Beading and black-as-pitch oxidation in the...

Circa 1930's-40's, this hand-wrought necklace is hallmarked with a simple early mark "Silver Mexico". I have previously had the identical design which was produced by Rafael Dominguez, as well I've seen it with the Antonio Pineda early mark. Twenty-seven lyre shaped panels are linked together with rectangular connectors topped with a copper bead set in the center of two silver beads. The looped hook closure is topped with four beads, copper alternating with silver. The lyre panels are deep...

Magnificent, rare vintage Georg Jensen sterling half disc link bracelet no. 169 designed by Astrid Fog c. 1969. Astrid Fog was known for her bold, simple designs often featuring geometric shapes as this piece. This bracelet measures 7 3/4" end to end, is 1 1/8" wide and weighs an impressive 128 grams. It curves and flows seamlessly on the wrist with a hidden clasp. Signed and numbered as shown, it is in beautiful original condition. This is mid- century modern Georg Jensen jewelry at its very fi...