When I first started my love-affair with vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I found myself intrigued by the work of artists whose names were not among the first ones a new collector would focus on. I love a challenge and seeking out “less celebrated” maestros who nevertheless created superbly crafted jewelry in imaginative designs became my “mission”...

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889...

One of my favorite female designers of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance (and admittedly, they aren't so many to begin with), Carmen Beckmann was a rather flexible maestra, able to create in many different styles. using a variety of materials. Her jewelry can be massive and jaw-dropping but quite as easily delicate and more sophisticated...

A lovely 14K gold pendant designed as a young woman's face captured in a crescent moon. She wears a large brimmed bucket hat with trailing ribbons in the style of the early 20s. In Victorian jewelry symbology, the crescent moon was a reminder of the moon goddess Selene (AKA Luna) and was often used to signal female empowerment. The reverse is marked "14K."

• America, ca...

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies...

Pendant necklaces are a favorite of mine - I love their versatility and the fact that I can layer them whichever way I want. Luckilly, there is a fabulous selection within the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry to choose from but I feel particularly lucky to have come upon an example of a classic Taxco design that is, however, smaller in scale than pendants of this design usually in...

Less-is-more would be the term I would use to describe this Carmen Beckmann modernist ring if it weren’t for that stone! Molten caramel golds fill the tiger’s eye slab almost in an ombre arrangement so that the ring changes the way it looks as the light that hits it changes...

Hand-wrought in its entirety and a design that I have never encountered before, this early Mexican silver repousse necklace is an anonymous beauty. Its early date is attested to by the fact that it's strung on cotton thread (one of the earliest Aguilar "lyre" necklaces I sold was strung on cotton as well) and has a spring ring clasp. Not signed for maker nor metal content or origin, it is adorned by an elongated cascabela attached to the central station in an adorable yet naive way...

An early Taxco treasure, this Mexican Deco cuff bracelet is both generous in weight and wrought in fine, .980 silver. The design is classic for the period and I have seen all-silver versions of it over the years by anonymous and recognizable names, that of Emma and La Cucaracha being among the most famous. The marriage of silver and copper that we are treated to here, however, I have never encountered before...

It's been a very long time since I offered a Mexican clamper bracelet and I am happy to be starting again with a classic Taxco design, this repousse and shadowbox "Quetzalcoatl" example. The maestro who signs it I am familiar with - he worked in Taxco and it seems that clamper bracelets were one of his favorite forms...

This is a gorgeous cuff produced by Los Castillo, with deeply chased swirling lines, oxidized recesses, and a beautiful patina. Signed and hallmarked Los Castillo Taxco, with the eagle assay 15 and design # 110. Weight is 58.9 grams. Edge to edge measures 5 5/8", with an additional opening/gap of 1 3/8". This will fit a larger wrist, but can be gently adjusted to size by a professional jeweler. In excellent vintage condition. Circa 1950's.

Circa mid-century, this hinged bracelet was produced by Erika Hult de Corral and has her unmistakeable style. Rare to see one of her pieces executed in 980 silver as this one is. Hult worked with both Sigi Pineda and Enrique Ledesma before opening her own shop, and the influence of Sigi Pineda can certainly be seen in this bracelet.

It's a beautiful bangle bracelet, hinged on both sides to swing wide open...

Calling the vintage Mexican silver and black stone "mask" ring I am presenting here massive is not an exaggeration. It is not just the actual ring size (9.5 US) that makes it so; it is also the textured, solid setting, quite masculine in design, and the beautifully carved, stupendous effigy it houses. I am not sure what the stone is - I think it might be onyx but it could also be black agate. I am fascinated by its opaque gravity and the way its satin finish invites the touch...

Per the Spratling Silver website, these earrings were only produced between 1958-1967. These William Spratling earrings are stunning, with eight shiny discs and tiny beading. Each disc moves independent of the others, creating beautiful movement. Measures 1 1/2" tall, 7/8" wide. Screw backs work perfectly. Signed and hallmarked with the WS Script Circle and eagle assay 30. Weight is 11.2 grams. In excellent vintage condition.

Chunky fine, .970 silver and gorgeous, appetizingly curvaceous tiger's eye spheres come together in this set of Mexican cufflinks by Taxco's renowned modernist, Antonio Pineda. The specific design is very popular in necklace and bracelet form but when it surfaces, it is usually with chrysoprase or aventurine or some other green stone. This is the first time I have seen it with tiger's eye and I have to admit, I love the combination...

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies...

Attributions are a difficult issue in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry - they are almost never accepted. If a piece is not signed, it’s just not signed! In this case, however, I will put my years of experience behind my suggestion that the necklace I am presenting here is the work of Reveriano Castillo. When I acquired it, it had no clasp and since the specific Reveri design is usually marked exactly there, the connection to its maker was lost. I had my jeweler craft a fold-over cla...

This large Fred Davis amethyst brooch was produced 1930's - early 40's. Measuring 4 1/2" long, 2 3/16" wide, it features a gorgeous hand-carved amethyst tulip. Pin closes with a roller. Signed and hallmarked with a conjoined FD and Silver Mexico. Weight is 32 grams. In excellent vintage condition. Some very minor abrasions on the edge of the tulip, but nothing seen without magnification.

Circa mid-century, these are fabulous earrings from Margot de Taxco.

These koi fish with teardrop amethyst dangles measure 1 3/4" tall, and they are stunning. The detailing is amazing. Amethysts match perfectly in color, and screw backs work perfectly.

Signed and hallmarked "Margot de Taxco 5207" on one, "Sterling Made in Mexico" on the other. No eagle assay.

Weight is 10 grams.

In excellent vintage condition, collector quality.

Circa mid-century, this is a rarely seen design from Antonio Pineda. I have seen hoop earrings from Antonio, but not this exact design with the rims.

These are fabulous! Repousse sterling silver hoop earrings which are very substantial - weighing 32 grams. Wide and puffy in the center, with a rim on each side. They are comfortable to wear and very secure. Hinged on one side, so simply open in the center to slide right on your ears. Classy, with an elegant modernist design.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry ...

Circa mid-century, these earrings are a rare find. Produced by Margot de Taxco, these are a book-piece design shown on page 34 of Margot Van Voorhies : The Art of Mexican Enamelwork. Both earrings and original design drawing are shown.

Referred to as "Egyptian Scroll", the colors are bright and vibrant. Gold, black, and green enamel.

Measure 1 9/16" x 1 1/4". Clips are tight and perfect.

Hallmarked with the design # 5758 on one earring, and the eagle assay 16 on ...

Circa pre-1940, this set of Matilde Poulat bird pins are signed with her early hallmarks. Collector quality, beautifully hand-crafted, with superb repoussé silver work, this matching pair of doves feature turquoise eyes, with one bird facing left and the other facing right. Absolutely fabulous.

Each measures 1 3/8" x 1 1/8". Pins close with rolling "C" clasps.

Signed and hallmarked on each pin "Matl 925".

Weight for the pair is 12.4 grams.

In excellen...

An interesting 10K Victorian pin in the form of a mythological creature coiled around a flame-like pillar. The creature appears to be an Ophis, a winged serpent from Greek mythology said to guard the myrrh fields of ancient Arabia. The monster grasps a seed pearl in it's jaws. The surfaces have a semi-matte bloomed finish. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 1-3/16"
• Weight: 2.6 grams

Beautiful vintage bracelet in silvertone metal with brilliant strass rhinestones, prong set, with blue, green, and red poured glass drops attached along the bracelet to tiny loops. Slide clasp with matching stone and safety chain. Probably French; the attached drops, the brilliant stones, the clasp, and the overall construction and look are characteristically French. 1960s or 1970s. The glass drops are attached in groups evenly by color. There are large, medium and small drops. All except the sm...

1930s 14K rose gold bar pin with keys and chain, accented with seed pearls. Engraved with deco-period shapes. Width is approximately 2 inches wide, 1/3 inch high.

An excellent late Victorian silver baton link watch chain, the batons decorated with niello in a checkboard pattern. The batons are joined by gilt silver curb links. Even the dog clip and bolt clasps are enhanced with striped niello. The chain is stamped “800.”

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all niello intact
• Length: 16-1/2”
• Weight: 10.4 grams

A nice 18K gold figural stick pin in the form of a bear, nicely detailed with engraved fur. The stem is spiraled, indicating an earlier date. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: head, 5/8” x 5/16”; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 3.5 gr.

A wonderful pair of late Victorian or early Edwardian sterling silver bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces cast with a delightful image of a beagle. The dog appears to be sitting in a basket with his paws hanging over the top edge. The detail is very nice. Tested and guaranteed sterling silver.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4" x 1/2". Weight: 14.8 grams.

Fabulous vintage necklace with thirteen glowing "dragon's breath" glass cabochons simulating fire opals, in baroque, deeply worked settings. Marked STERLING, TAXCO, EMMA, and numbered 279. This is the mark of Emma Melendez of Taxco, active 1953-1971. Slide clasp. 16 inches wearable length and 7/8 inch wide. Excellent condition. Photos enlarged to show detail. Display form is life size.

Maestro C. Molina is one of those “enigmatic” figures of Mexico’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Even in Bille Hougart’s seminal work on hallmarks and makers there is minimal information about him - namely, two or three examples of the way his jewelry is hallmarked and the photos are really difficult to read. Yet I have come upon his works several times during my years of buying and selling vintage Mexican silver and our lack of information notwithstanding, I have come to appreciate the hig...

A nice pair of Edwardian doubled-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces decorated in a combination of matte reserves flanked by polished foliate plaques. The design hints are the arrival of Art Deco. The “bowtie” connectors are decorated, as well, and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 5/8” x 7/16”. Weight: 7.3 grams.

Exceptional design for an exceptional guy. This is a wonderful pair of vintage 14K white and yellow gold double-sided cuff links, having a stylized rectangular shape, the face designed in white gold with wheel cut ribbed design defined in an oval and bordered in repousee, the yellow gold back marked 14K,. Weight: 6.3g; Size: 5/8" x 1/4"; Condition is like new.

Beautiful earrings in classic MATL style. By Matilde Poulat of Mexico City. Circa 1950. Marked MATL in script, 925, and MEXICO, and both earrings are marked with eagle 129, which is the correct number. The screwbacks, which are original, are marked ALPACA, which is of course a white metal alloy. With detailed baroque wirework, tiny turquoise cabochons with beautifully aged green color, and pyramidal amethysts. 1 1/2 inches long and just under 1 inch wide. Excellent condition. One ame...

A delicate early Art Deco gold chain worked in 14K white gold filigree. Each of the baton-shaped links is centered with a short length of ropetwist to create the filigree appearance. Marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 25-5/8” long
• Weight: 3.6 grams

Elegant silver tone Yves Saint Laurent necklace with large royal blue and white marquis or navette shape rhinestones. The YSL necklace is 16 5/8" (42.1 cm) long (including the extender, but not the YSL logo at the end.) The rhinestone piece is 3" (7.5 cm) long x 2 1/8" (5.2 cm) deep. It is signed on both the back of the necklace and on the tag at the end of the extender chain. It is in perfect condition. Please Note: All items must have the original inventory tags in place and be...

Colorful Victorian silver gilt double-sided cufflinks featuring beautifully patterned malachite cabochons. The gilt silver borders are finished in a classic laurel wreath design. The removable connectors are marked for 800 silver.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent, original gilding intact
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide

American Modernist Bronze Vintage Abstract Ring

Carl Tasha - signed

c.1970s

Excellent condition

size 6

front - 1 3/8" x 1"

A vintage 18K yellow gold figa (also "mano fico") charm or pendant. The figa is considered a weapon against the "evil eye" and a protector of creative forces, including the womb. The form itself is derived from ancient representations of female genitalia. The wrist has a traditional flowered cuff.

• 3.3 grams
• 1 3/8" long (excluding jump ring)

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a classic diamond-shaped design completed with black onyx. The toggle backs are stamed "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1" x 11/16". Weight; 10.0 gr.

An attractive 14K yellow gold ring with a double row of channel-set calibre-cut blue sapphires arranged in a swag design. The ribbed gold surfaces further add to the ring's sense of movement. The sapphires are well-matched and have good, saturated color. The interior of the shank is marked "14K."

Origin: America. Dimensions: 7/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/32" at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 5. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .75 ct.

Stunning vintage 1970s modernist collar necklace in sterling silver with a large genuine rock crystal quartz stone. Marked ALTON SWEDEN 935 STERLING (935 is actually a higher silver content than sterling, which is of course 925). Great statement from all angles. Easy to slip on and off. Inside circumference/wearable length is about 17 to 18 inches, including the gap, which is 2 inches. The rock crystal stone and setting is 3/4 inch. Excellent condition. Display form is life size. Photos enlarged...

One of the few female designers of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance that we know of, Bernice Goodspeed arrived in Mexico's capital in 1930, according to Bille Hougart. Even though she and her painter husband, Carl Pappe, identified as writers and artists primarily, they opened a shop in Taxco where they sold not only their books and artwork but also jewelry that Bernice herself designed. Bernice's work is not as easily found - she was probably not as prolific as some of her contemporary maest...

Perfect for the black turtlenecks and heavy coats of winter this vintage Mexican Deco silver and turquoise bird of paradise brooch is a stupendous work of art! Not only does its sheer size stun the eye, its layered sculpturality and curvaceous repoussage invites the touch and allows the light to play a thousand tricks hiding in its recesses and reflecting off its elevations. I was always a big fan of brooches and my focus on Mexican jewelry has rewarded me a myriad times over the years with amaz...

Stunning antique Austro Hungarian silver girandole drop earrings in 935 silver with glass paste stones, in an 18th century style. Circa 1910. 935 silver is a bit higher in silver content than sterling, and the designation was used in Austria, Germany, and Switzerland. The design and construction are characteristic of Austro Hungarian jewelry. Marked 935. With screwbacks. The stones are held in tiny prong settings. The backs of the earrings are as finely and ornately finished as the fronts. The l...

Impressively long and beguilingly slick with its glowing tapering dangles half-hiding a bullet-shaped piece of black onyx, this is one of Antonio Pineda’s most eye-catching set of earrings. Simple yet visually strong lines that re-affirm the philosophy of less-is-more in the world of adornment; smooth as silk, dancer-like motion; fleshy geometry (if you allow me the word combination), all come together and become a piece of wearable art in the hands of Mexico’s modernist magician. Measuring ...

Symbols of fertility, rebirth, transformation and even immortality snakes and serpents have been favorite jewelry motifs through the centuries and across civilizations. In this Mexican Deco demi signed by the Los Castillo they are formed by silver, copper and brass, their slick bodies coiled around shimmering golden sheen obsidian. This is one of the best examples of the technique I have seen by the Los Castillo - probably because I love snake jewelry. Yet how could I say otherwise? Just look at...

A terrific 18K yellow gold stick pin in the form of a German shepherd’s head. The detail work is especially well-done, with very accurate representation of the fur, the texture of the snout, etc. The pinstem is stamped with the “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: overall length, 3”; head, 1/2” x 9/16”. Weight: 4.5 grams.

Undoubtedly the result of artistic cross-pollination this vintage Mexican silver neck ring pendant necklace emits an intense Scandinavian vibe . Evocative of Danish modernist jewelry, it is not just the shapes that refer to it but also the choice of sodalite cabochons to accompany the warmly glowing silver. Slick, elegant, versatile - a combination which still speaks to our modern eye even though created almost a century ago. The neck ring has an inner circumference of 16” (including the 1 1/...

I love vintage Portuguese silver bracelets, the repousse hinged bangles more specifically, for which makers like Topazio and Safir are well known. They come in all sizes and designs, they are ideal for bracelet stacks but can be just as easily enjoyed worn alone. The example at hand is floral, with sculptural roses and dahlias in full bloom and in bud running its perimeter, rendered more dramatic by the patina time has bestowed upon them. The bracelet has an 7” inner circumference (clasped) an...

A true choker-sized necklace by the Los Castillo workshop which can, nevertheless, easily accept a simple extension (please, ask if you need one), this is a design I have always admired for its perfect combination of sterling repousse links and bi-cone (or sometimes even flattened circular) glass beads. Very well made and so easy to enjoy no matter what the occasion is, our version is adorned with amethyst-colored beads that cast a purple shadow on the already warm patina of the silver. The neck...

Known for her bold modernist designs and her love for big, gem- and stone-studded bracelets Carmen Beckmann was equally creative when allowing the Spanish Colonial tradition to influence her work. That “old way” of doing things manifests itself here in the heart-shaped wire-work appliques that support the luscious tiger’s eye cabochon, bringing to mind the more delicate, ornate filigree jewelry every silversmith in the country knew how to make. Everything else, however, from the oversized ...

A rarely surfacing pair of stunning Miguel Martinez earrings, this set reinterprets neo-Aztec elements in a modernist, almost surrealist way. I consider Martinez's jewelry to be among the best examples of 20th c. Taxco design and silver-smithing, always a feast for the eyes and perfectly finished. Here two different finishes in the silver combine with purposefully applied oxidation to lend body to the appliques and render the fan-shaped element at the top more dramatic against its black backgrou...

This mid-century kinetic design necklace is the work of Erika Hult de Corral.

It's a stunning signature piece which features an extra-long length of 28 1/2". Erika Hult de Corral studied at the Parsons School of Design in Paris, later on working with both Sigi Pineda and Enrique Ledesma before opening her own shop.

Moon crater balls and long tubes combine on the sides, with a centerpiece which has free swinging pendulums of varying lengths. Closes with a tight and secure to...

"Mask" jewelry is not a rarity in the world of vintage Mexican silver yet the portrayals are almost always of ancient, Mesoamerican faces. And even though I am a very big fan of them as long as both the carving and the setting is interesting, I am thrilled to be presenting here a big brooch by A. Tobias housing the portrait of a more "contemporary" man. There is something in this "mask" that screams "Roman" to me and I know the typology might not even justify it but that was my initial reaction ...

Stunning Los Castillo "doorknocker" dangle earrings, these beauties are breath-taking and beguilingly curvaceous. I love this design and it has been a long time since I had a similar set. Sensual curves, sculptural teardrops, discrete little scrolls and confident, masterful repoussage - there is nothing about the pair that was not paid attention to. Even the concave round elements that hide the screw-back at the earrings' top have been enhanced with oxidation. Measuring 2 1/4" long by 1 1/8" wid...

Circa 1940-1945, this pin was produced by Los Castillo. It's an early piece which was designed by Margot van Voorhies Carr / Margot de Taxco. This is a superbly crafted piece, showing a koi fish swimming atop a blue glass stone which is filled with bubbles. Exquisitely detailed with wonderful repoussé silver work, it's a gorgeous showpiece. Measures 3 3/8" x 2". Weight is 29.8 grams. Signed and hallmarked "Los Castillo Taxco Sterling Made in Mexico", with the design # 514. In exc...

A delightful enameled 18K gold love/friendship charm or pendant by Georg Adam Scheid, jeweler to the Imperial Hapsburg Court in Vienna. The rooster is carefully engraved into the gold surface and then filled with translucent enamels in shades of orange, green and yellow. The edge is enameled in black with the French phrase, "Quand ce coq chantera, mon amitié finira. (When this rooster crows, my friendship will end.)" Obviously, the gold and enamel rooster will never crow, so the friendship wil...

A whimsical Retro 18K yellow gold, amazonite and ruby brooch in the form of a stork. The turquoise coloring of the amazonite against the red of the ruby eye is very attractive. The use of amazonite is unusual, but the color and texture are evocative of a bird's plumage. This piece could easily be updated to become a pendant instead of a pin. The reverse is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-1/16". Weight: 5.1 gr. A...

A very nice 14K yellow gold pendant set with a circle of diamonds around a natural black star sapphire. The cabochon sapphire is very fine quality with excellent asterism (the star-like effect). The diamonds are bead-set in white gold. Exposed areas of gold have a Florentine finish that contrasts nicely with the sparkle of the diamonds and sapphires. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

The 16" 14K gold chain shown in the photos is available for an additional $85.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condi...