A delightful enameled 18K gold love/friendship charm or pendant by Georg Adam Scheid, jeweler to the Imperial Hapsburg Court in Vienna. The rooster is carefully engraved into the gold surface and then filled with translucent enamels in shades of orange, green and yellow. The edge is enameled in black with the French phrase, "Quand ce coq chantera, mon amitié finira...

A whimsical Retro 18K yellow gold, amazonite and ruby brooch in the form of a stork. The turquoise coloring of the amazonite against the red of the ruby eye is very attractive. The use of amazonite is unusual, but the color and texture are evocative of a bird's plumage. This piece could easily be updated to become a pendant instead of a pin. The reverse is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-1/16". Weight: 5.1 gr...

These very rare earrings from Margot de Taxco are a curled ribbon design, with synthetic pink tourmaline stones dangling below. The stones are a star cut, and they are gorgeous. Measuring 2" tall and 15/16" wide, these show up beautifully. Signed and hallmarked "Margot de Taxco 5429 Sterling Made in Mexico", with the eagle assay 16. They have been converted professionally to clips, and they are super comfortable to wear and very secure. Weight is 26.1 grams. In excellent vintage condition.

Circa 1940-1945, this pin was produced by Los Castillo. It's an early piece which was designed by Margot van Voorhies Carr / Margot de Taxco. This is a superbly crafted piece, showing a koi fish swimming atop a blue glass stone which is filled with bubbles...

Superbly crafted, profusely decorated and visually powerful this early Mexico City repousse figural brooch is an a rather rare example of vermeil silver jewelry from the country's 20th c. Silver Renaissance. I will admit that I am not particularly fond of vermeil - I love the look and feel of aged silver without "enhancements" that make it look like something it is actually not. Yet there are those very very scarce moments when a piece like this shows up and it makes me reconsider...

A fascinating pair of double-sided Continental silver cufflinks, each face featuring the image of Medusa. The faces are intended to suggest ancient coins, but the stylized lines are very much in the Cubist style. Though her appearance was capable of turning a man to stone, Medusa's image was often used to ward off evil spirits. The backs are stamped with French import marks.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: larger faces, 7/8" diameter...

A very attractive pair of silver cufflinks inlaid with various hardstones by noted Navajo artist Jim Harrison. The curved faces are inlaid with turquoise, coral, lapis, sugilite, onyx and malachite in a contemporary interpretation of timeless Navajo designs. Harrison is considered a pioneer of contemporary Native America inlaid jewelry and his work is held in several museum collections. Each cufflink is signed "Jim Harrison" and is marked "Sterling".

Origin: America (New Mexico), ca. 1990...

Stunning in its towering smokey brilliance, this minimalist solitaire by Carmen Beckmann is a modernist Mexican beauty! Based in San Miguel de Allende Beckmann is reported to have started her activity a little later than the big Mexico City and Taxco workshops with most of her pieces dating in the 1950s and 1960s. In the ring at hand, the generously sized faceted gem is raised above a substantial geometric shank, held in place with sterling prongs in a crown-style setting...

This Los Castillo bracelet is a truly stunning piece, with a wonderful deco design. There are six gently curved panels connected with oxidized bulls-eye spirals, from which two pendants dangle in front. This is Los Castillo's design # 788, and it is collector quality. Complete with safety chain. Measures a closed, wearable length of 6 1/4". Width in front with the dangles is 1 1/2". Weight is 42.3 grams. Signed and hallmarked "Los Castillo Taxco", 788, with a very worn eagle assay.

Maestro Damaso Gallegos was for years associated in my mind with the Mexican Deco "Christmas jewelry” tradition. His “holly and bells” as well as “bow and bells” designs are a classic way to celebrate the coming of the holiday season yet in the last couple of years I keep stumbling upon totally unexpected pieces by him. The massive, early Taxco combination pin / pendant with the carved stone “mask” at hand is crafted in high purity, .980 silver with overlay, beading and oxidation...

There are some pieces of jewelry that simply defy any effort to photograph them. And this stunning Taxco modernist sterling silver and blue spinel hinged bangle is one of them - a really tough one at that too! I have faced this challenge once before in the past and the “culprit” is available here as well, only that one is by Enrique Ledesma and adorned with color-change sapphires...

I never tire of the double-sided pendant necklaces Victor Jaimez created for Emma Melendez. The perfect blend of Aztec Revival and modernismo Mexicano, they are unfailingly characterized by craftsmanship of the highest level and meticulous finishing. At the same time dramatic and awe-inspiring, the pendant's two sides showcase several techniques as overlay, oxidation and mozaico inlay come together to create the image of Quetzalcoatl and the abstract figure of a Meso-american monkey...

Abstract - and rather chubby - fish wrought in sterling silver with overlay and oxidation hang off the earlobes with this set of abstract Mexican dangles signed by Sigi Pineda. I don't believe I had this specific design by the talented - and prolific - Taxco modernist before but I am very familiar with the line and definitely in love with it. Substantial in size and quite dramatic in their juxtaposition of matte black and warmly glowing silver, these are quirky and elegant in a strange yet quite...

I am very partial to hinged bangle bracelets - you get the best of both worlds with them! - and I am very attracted to the Portuguese repousse examples. Signed by Topazio, the country’s foremost manufacturer of silver holloware and decorative items, there is something quite “regal” about this piece. Surrounded by scrolls and foliate motifs the dominant design here is a royal crown. It is repeated in all eight facets in high relief and looks even more sculptural thanks to the patina that ha...

The combination of fine, high purity silver and moonstone is one of my favorite and was equally favored, it seems, by Antonio Pineda, Taxco's renowned modernist. Set in three-dimensional 970 silver settings the stones at hand have a luminous pearlescence that draws the eye into their magical depths, and perfectly reflect the warm glow of the precious metal surrounding them. Antonio's jewelry is characterized by an unfailing sense of easy luxury and that feeling is present here as well. Substanti...

Matching the set of earrings that is also available in my store (you can see the demi together in two of the photos) this Mexican silver and azur-malachite ring by maestro Felipe Martinez is an ode to the power of color. Striking greens and dark, rich blues delight the eye while the elegance of the sterling ring shoulders complement in the best possible way the magic of the stone. Currently a sz because of the size it comes with (easily removed) the ring is an sz 7 (can also be easily resized). ...

I am thrilled to have stumbled upon this amazing, quintessentially Deco and quite rare Mexican silver and stone ring! Though this piece is not signed for maker, the design is a known Fred Davis creation and as I have recently noted in one of my descriptions, Davis was never as adamant as Spratling was in hallmarking all jewelry coming out of his workshop. So out there, there are many Davis creations that are simply not marked fully and I believe this beauty might easily be one of them. Bold in i...

A delightfully feisty-looking cat is featured in the French Art Nouveau brooch. We’re particularly fond of his enormously long whiskers that stretch the full width of the pin. The pin is stamped with French silver marks and with an illegible maker’s mark.

NOTE: The pin could be worn as a pendant with the addition of a bail to the back.

• Origin: France, ca. 1905.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” diameter.
• Weight: 5.4 grams.

An American who arrived in Mexico in the 1940s, opened her own workshop in 1945 and by 1950 employed about twenty five artisans*, Doris is one of the few female designers that we know of in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry. My first encounter with her creations wasn’t until a few years into my “career” as a Mexican jewelry dealer and I was immediately captivated by the exquisite design, the impeccable craftsmanship and the quality of the materials used. I have seen kept my eyes...

Bearing the signature of maestro Barrera this carefully made figural brooch depicts a richly clad person, most probably a nobleman or priest, with hands forming a very distinct gesture as if he takes part in a ritual or is performing a dance. Barrera , I suspect, worked in Mexico City, and created some impressive jewelry in the style associated with it. In the brooch at hand attention has been paid to every little detail that emphasizes the figure's high standing in society, their importance exp...

A luxurious tassel, its sterling threads spilling out of a brushed silver bead, catches the eye instantly in this vintage Mexican charm bracelet. A classic rendition of the specific design, it has a thick twist rope chain that has acquired a soft, silky glow over the years. Striding the divide between Deco and Retro jewelry, this is a veritable statement bracelet and if you decide to add the matching earrings and lariat necklace you see in one of the photos to it, you will not be disappointed. T...

I am thrilled to be presenting you with this Mexican Deco silver and amethyst glass “masks” and cabs bracelet. This type of multi-row repousse semi-spheres bangle (I like to think of similar bracelets as glorified hinged bangles indeed!) is one of the most sought-after forms in the world of vintage jewelry from Mexico. The particular example, with its heavy patina, its molded elongated masks and the hidden clasp (it is positioned behind one of the faces, as you can see) is a veritable little...

This necklace was purchased in Milan in the late 1970's. It is stunning in its simplicity. The design and sparkle of the attached disk is eye catching. Note the interesting metal, between silver and gun metal in color. Chain 18" long. Disk 1 3/4" high, 1 3/8" wide.

Over the years of my career as a vintage Mexican jewelry dealer I have come to love and appreciate the "mask" pieces created by the Los Ballesteros workshop. I have to admit that this was not a "love-at-first-sight" affair. On the contrary, it took me some time to realize that prolific though they might have been, especially in the post-1980 years which witnessed a drop in creativity as well, the specific workshop excelled in the production of superb jewelry centered by carved stone effigies. Th...

Great carved Bakelite fish with painted eye and lucite fin. Thick and heavy for its size. 3 1/8" wide, 3 1/8" high.

Circa mid-century, this necklace was produced by Ana María Nuñez de Brilanti, whose shop was known as Victoria.

Brilanti was known for her unique designs in mixed and married metal, and for her commitment to quality.

This is a gorgeous necklace. The pendant can be removed and worn alone as a pin. It's a large piece with a multi-dimensional celtic design in sterling silver, copper, and brass. The paper clip chain has rectangular silver links with alternating copper and bra...

Pretty 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover engraved with a floral motif centered by a 10-point round brillian cut diamond. The diamond has very nice clarity and color. The inside rim is stamped with the maker's mark "WEH 14K".

Origin: America, circa 1930. Condition: excellent, no monograms or removals. Size: 1-3/16" x 15/16". Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .1 carat.

This hand-wrought Mexican necklace dates to pre-1948,

It's an exquisite piece with highly detailed silver work, and it looks beautiful on. Measuring 36" in length, the two sides can clip together about 4" from each end.

Signed and hallmarked on the bottom of each ball "S.D. Hecho en Mexico 0.925".

Weight is 80.5 grams.

In excellent vintage condition.

Outrageous! These earrings speak for themselves. To be worn by one who likes being bold and dramatic. All prong set stones, silvertone backing. Clips are stamped KJL. Top to bottom 4 1/2", side to side 2 1/2".

This pin from Los Castillo dates 1940-1945. It's an early piece, likely designed by Margot van Voorhies Carr while she was married to Antonio Castillo. It's a beautiful repoussé sterling silver pin with an oval amethyst cabochon surrounded by tiny silver beading. A floral design with exquisite detailing, this pin measures 3 1/16" wide, 1 1/2" tall. Weight is 24.8 grams. Signed and hallmarked "Los Castillo Taxco Sterling Made in Mexico", with the early design number 100. In excellent vinta...

Chunky and heavy bronze cocktail ring with an offset pearl. Size 8. Measures approx: 1" across with the sides of the ring measuring 3/4". Weighs 23 grams. Unmarked. Excellent vintage condition.

Circa 1940-1945, this is a rarely seen hummingbird pin produced by Hector Aguilar at the Taller Borda. This piece is shown on p. 17 of "Silver Masters of Mexico". Beautifully hand-wrought with superb repoussé silver work, this pin is collector quality. Measures 2 1/2" x 1 7/8", pin closes with a roller. Weight is 17.3 grams. Signed and hallmarked "HA Made in Mexico Sterling". In excellent vintage condition.

An iconic personality for advocates of female empowerment, Jeanne d’ Arc is not a figure I expected to see on a piece of jewelry by the Los Castillo. I look at the pendant and I see Margot de Taxco at her drawing table, sketch pencil in hand, making the French heroine materialize on paper before she is cast in sterling silver. Very unusual - I have never seen one before - the pendant is crafted “cameo style”, with Jeanne d’ Arc on horseback, brandishing her sword in full armor for the fo...

Ronald Pearson modernist sterling silver brooch

1 1/2" x 1 1/4"

Stamped Pearson sterling

Very good vintage condition

Minor age related surface scratches

A lovely carved coral cameo of a maiden in an elegant 14K yellow gold surround set with small pearls. The cameo is deeply carved and has nicely even color. The back retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The back is stamped "14K" and has the maker's mark for Erlich & Sinnock, a Newark jeweler.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 25/32" x 15/16" (excluding bail). Weight: 6.0 gr.

Originally a painter who in the 1930s moved to Mexico to participate in the country’s cultural scene, Bernice Goodspeed quickly moved into designing and selling her own jewelry out of the store she and her fellow-artist husband Carl Pappe opened in Taxco. Bernice’s work does not come up often and I am very excited to have found this repousse necklace by her. The rose links, very reminiscent of the classic “Rosas de Mexico” that often adorn cuffs by Sanborn’s and Maciel, are at the same...

Matching the highly geometric cuff bracelet that is also available in my store, this vintage Los Castillo Mexican silver modernist ring still cherishes the austere angularity of the Deco years. Set in channels defined by sterling wires, the saturated blues and greens of the azur-malachite inlay clearly mark it as belonging to the workshop's "mozaico Azteca" line. Its strong geometry notwithstanding, the ring is easy to wear since the shank curves as it progress towards the back providing a smoot...

Classic Antonio Pineda bangle bracelet wrought in the maestro's favorite, .970 fine silver alloy with deep notches all around it that appear more dramatic thanks to the intentionally applied oxidation. There is something about Antonio's jewelry that bring them close to your heart as soon as you first see them and this piece is no exception. Enjoy it alone or, if you are lucky enough, add it to the stack of his bangles you already have. The bracelet has an inner circumference of 7 3/4" (2 1/2" i...

Circa mid-century, this Margot de Taxco ring has exquisite repoussé silver work with scrolls and tiny beading.

This is Margot's design #5337. The face of the ring measures 1 3/8" x 1", with a band that is adjustable. Current size is 9 1/4.

Weight is 19.1 grams.

Hallmarked with the eagle assay 16 and the design # 5337.

Beautiful patina, excellent vintage condition.

Possibly my most favorite Carmen Beckmann ring design (an example lives in my jewelry box), her Etruscan style domed creation presented here is an ode to wire-work and micro-beading. It rises regally above the finger yet because of all those curved, glistening surfaces, it never creates problems to the wearer like most rings that are so high do. And though its “stature” is by itself impressive, it is all those nooks and crannies among the profusion of design elements coming together here tha...

Authentic David Andersen silver enamel sea horse pin with 3 shades of enamel-- light purple, lilac, and deep purple. Hallmarked on back (see photo). Enamel work with basse taille flower detail visible underneath enamel. Length is approx 2.25 inches long, 1.4 inches wide. All enamel intact, excellent condition.

Beautiful antique Edwardian long drop screwback earrings in sterling silver and 10KT white gold with paste rhinestones. Circa 1910. With paste rhinestones in closed settings, and one unfoiled stone on the center drop of each earring in an openback setting. The stones are held with tiny prongs. Marked STERLING with an illegible maker's mark, and also marked 10KT on the backs of the screwbacks. It's possible these were converted from pierced by a very early owner but there are no obvious signs of ...

Glistening caramel golds and molten browns dominate in this Cecilia Tono Mexican modernist bang ring. This is one of my favorite Taxco collaborations - the jewelry that came out of it slick and inventive with the highest quality of craftsmanship and the best of materials. There is nothing excessive about this ring - except maybe the heftiness of its oxidized setting - yet it immediately attracts the eye and holds the gaze captive with its liquid warmth and its generous width. The ring is a comfo...

In my last treasure-hunting adventure I ended up with a couple of really really nice cross pendants and necklaces. The first one to gain center stage is this two-sided Flli Coppini Italian silver example. Executed in the .800 alloy that was the Italian standard until 1934, the pendant is crisply cast and its profusion of detail and ornamentation is easily readable to the eye. A generously-sized piece, it is shown in one of the photos here with a Peruzzi / Coppini style silver chain so you can ge...

A nice Art Deco 14K white gold bar link chain. The bars alternate with groups of three round links. The bars reflect light, so the chain has a pleasant shimmer. The clasp is marked "14K".

• Origin: America, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent
• Length: 21-3/4"
• Weight: 3.1 grams

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a five rose cut diamonds and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the...

Confident in his prowess as a warrior and comfortable in his ceremonial attire this Margot de Taxco silver and enamel Aztec figure can be enjoyed both as a brooch as well as a pendant. Though experimentation with the art of enameling started while Margot was still part of the Los Castillo workshop, it was after her divorce with Antonio that she focused on perfecting it in her own, independent taller. And perfect it she did. So much so that today, when one thinks of Mexican enamel jewelry, one un...

Fabulous early signed Kenneth J. Lane clip drop earrings in dark goldtone metal with marquise green poured glass stones and rhinestones, with three strands. All stones are prong set. Late 1960s, with the early mark K.J.L., with a period after each initial. 3 1/2 inches long. Excellent condition. Photos enlarged to show detail.

In the style associated with Matilde Poulat the Mexican Deco sterling silver brooch presented here is big, bold and beautiful! Wrought en repoussage and embellished with hand-chasing feathers and beads surround three gorgeous turquoise cabochons in shades of blue and green. The brooch is open-backed like many of Matl’s early pieces and a pleasure to wear and to behold. It measures 2 3/4” wide by 1 7/8” tall and weighs 17.8 grams. It is simply marked “MEXICO SILVER”, dates in the 1...

Large and beautifully crafted Navajo Silver and Turquoise ring, size 8 3/4", measuring 1 3/4" long and 1" wide, and 1 1/4" high from base of band to top of stone. The stone has a lovely caramel and brown matrix, with a deep turquoise green tone. It is signed "sterling" and has a maker's mark that is not clear. From a collection of good Navajo jewelry, most pre 1980s. In good condition, some wear and slight tarnist visible to silver, but the stone is in perfect condition, nicely polished and ...

Stinn Modernist sterling silver abstract necklace

Pendant - 2" x 1"

Chain measures 17" when outstretched

Marked Stinn, sterling

Excellent vintage condition

Wonderful French 18K gold stickpin in the form of a dragon. The detail is incredible. Raised up on his hind legs, with his wings unfurled, the dragon is exhaling tongues of flame. His tail is curled around several times before circling completely around the body to form the circular outline of the stickpin's head. The texture of the feathery wings and scaly body is superb. The back is marked with French hallmarks for 18K gold and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Co...

One of my favorite "less celebrated" Taxco maestros, Gerardo Lopez has been steadily gaining in popularity among collectors of vintage Mexican silver jewelry. I suspect that he worked for the Los Castillo and / or Margot de Taxco before he started his own taller as his creations are often reminiscent of designs issued by both famous workshops. Lopez's repoussage is masterful and the finishing on his jewelry impeccable. Here, however, he espoused a more "two-dimensional" approach with evident mod...

Bearing the signature of Pedro Castillo this bracelet is, for me, a fusion of classic Taxco "arhaeological" as well as modernist elements. The overlay is immaculately crafted - one would never expect less from a Castillo - and the design lends itself to several readings. Is it a stylized butterfly? Two human forms positioned sideways, mirroring each other? An elaboration on ancient Mesoamerican motifs with a mod twist? Be that as it may, the bracelet has an intense visual presence that is only e...

Possibly the most "surrealist" early Mexican Deco "mask" brooch I have ever had, this piece is the source of so many questions for me. What is it exactly that it depicts with its "portrait" surrounded by an elaborate headdress, the two arms emanating right from its top with no actual body present? And what is the "mask" itself made of? It registers as a stone in my gem-tester but I am not sure if it is onyx or a different type of opaque, black stone. I find myself in one of those instances in wh...

A graduate of the Parson's School of Design in Paris, Erika Hult de Corral is one of my favorite modernist designers and silversmiths in the context of Mexican silver jewelry. Spanning a few decades, her work is unfailingly of the highest quality with attention paid not only to materials but also to finishing and, of course, imaginative design. The ring presented here, wrought in sterling and centered by a scrumptious tiger's eye stone, can also be found with Enrique Ledesma's signature. Since ...

A classic combination for Enrique Ledesma, the marrying of sterling and stone, makes this vintage Mexican bracelet an easily recognizable creation by the renowned Taxco modernist. The stone is here azur-malachite, I believe, with greens and browns predominant and the warmth of the silver casings adds a certain "inner glow" to it. The bracelet offers a glimpse of its life story in an inscription on the back of one link - romantic and rare yet if you would rather have it removed, it can be easily ...

Slender, elongated, hand-wrought fine silver feathers that end in a playful curl make up this set of "swan wing" modernist earrings by Antonio Pineda. I have to admit that this is one of the most unexpected Antonio creations I have ever encountered. When I first saw it, I thought that the clip-ons would have to surely be a later replacement yet I have since seen a similar pair and that one too had the same findings. Now these are earrings for those not afraid to ... spread their wings and reach ...

Early pre-eagle large bracelet with a lacy flower form pattern. Circa 1940. Marked STERLING 925 TAXCO. With a darkened aged finish. It weighs 59 grams. This piece and most of the other Mexican silver I have listed came from one long time collector's estate. 4 inches wide in the front and with a wearable length (when the edges meet) of 7 inches. Excellent condition. No dents. Photos enlarged to show detail. Display form is life size.

These mid-century earrings from Antonio Pineda are large and unusual. The primitive hunter design is said to have been based on the Lascaux cave drawings, used on several of his pieces. I have the matching bracelet in my shop. These dangle earrings are quite substantial, measuring 2" top to bottom, with a width of 1 7/16". Weight is 28.5 grams. Screwbacks work perfectly. Signed and hallmarked with the Antonio Taxco crown, 970, Hecho en Mexico, and the eagle assay 17. In excellent vin...