Glistening caramel golds and molten browns dominate in this Cecilia Tono Mexican modernist bang ring. This is one of my favorite Taxco collaborations - the jewelry that came out of it slick and inventive with the highest quality of craftsmanship and the best of materials. There is nothing excessive about this ring - except maybe the heftiness of its oxidized setting - yet it immediately attracts the eye and holds the gaze captive with its liquid warmth and its generous width...

In the style associated with Matilde Poulat the Mexican Deco sterling silver brooch presented here is big, bold and beautiful! Wrought en repoussage and embellished with hand-chasing feathers and beads surround three gorgeous turquoise cabochons in shades of blue and green. The brooch is open-backed like many of Matl’s early pieces and a pleasure to wear and to behold. It measures 2 3/4” wide by 1 7/8” tall and weighs 17.8 grams...

Possibly the most "surrealist" early Mexican Deco "mask" brooch I have ever had, this piece is the source of so many questions for me. What is it exactly that it depicts with its "portrait" surrounded by an elaborate headdress, the two arms emanating right from its top with no actual body present? And what is the "mask" itself made of? It registers as a stone in my gem-tester but I am not sure if it is onyx or a different type of opaque, black stone...

Bearing the signature of Pedro Castillo this bracelet is, for me, a fusion of classic Taxco "arhaeological" as well as modernist elements. The overlay is immaculately crafted - one would never expect less from a Castillo - and the design lends itself to several readings...

Wonderful French 18K gold stickpin in the form of a dragon. The detail is incredible. Raised up on his hind legs, with his wings unfurled, the dragon is exhaling tongues of flame. His tail is curled around several times before circling completely around the body to form the circular outline of the stickpin's head. The texture of the feathery wings and scaly body is superb. The back is marked with French hallmarks for 18K gold and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1860...

Large and beautifully crafted Navajo Silver and Turquoise ring, size 8 3/4", measuring 1 3/4" long and 1" wide, and 1 1/4" high from base of band to top of stone. The stone has a lovely caramel and brown matrix, with a deep turquoise green tone. It is signed "sterling" and has a maker's mark that is not clear. From a collection of good Navajo jewelry, most pre 1980s. In good condition, some wear and slight tarnist visible to silver, but the stone is in perfect condition, nicely polished and ...

A graduate of the Parson's School of Design in Paris, Erika Hult de Corral is one of my favorite modernist designers and silversmiths in the context of Mexican silver jewelry. Spanning a few decades, her work is unfailingly of the highest quality with attention paid not only to materials but also to finishing and, of course, imaginative design. The ring presented here, wrought in sterling and centered by a scrumptious tiger's eye stone, can also be found with Enrique Ledesma's signature...

A classic combination for Enrique Ledesma, the marrying of sterling and stone, makes this vintage Mexican bracelet an easily recognizable creation by the renowned Taxco modernist. The stone is here azur-malachite, I believe, with greens and browns predominant and the warmth of the silver casings adds a certain "inner glow" to it...

Slender, elongated, hand-wrought fine silver feathers that end in a playful curl make up this set of "swan wing" modernist earrings by Antonio Pineda. I have to admit that this is one of the most unexpected Antonio creations I have ever encountered. When I first saw it, I thought that the clip-ons would have to surely be a later replacement yet I have since seen a similar pair and that one too had the same findings. Now these are earrings for those not afraid to .....

Bird doll motif. Pre assay era Made in Mexico bird pin brooch. Early - tested at least sterling - colossal 4 3/4" north to south with 2 turquoise beads. This figural exhibits flowers in the style of Fred Davis or Matilde Poulat. Repousse and chase workmanship.
The native peoples were known to make dolls representing the local animals for their children to play. Today those same children are being taught the value in Nature Tourism...

Circa mid-century, this Los Castillo pin is a spectacular work of wearable art, and features one of their most iconic designs.

It's a multi-dimensional piece with superb repoussé silver work, highly detailed, and absolutely collector quality.

Measures 3 1/4" x 2"...

This brooch by Matilde Poulat features a large amethyst front and center, with turquoise cabochons and coral branches in a butterfly design with dangles.

Measures 2" tall x 1 1/2" wide. Pin closes with a rolling "C" clasp.

Weight is 11.8 grams.

Signed and hallmarked "Matl Mexico 925", with the eagle assay 129. Dates to pre-1960.

Straddling the divide between Aesthetic and Arts and Crafts design, this hinged sterling silver buckle bracelet was, I believe, made in the USA based on its hallmarking. The entire surface of the front "wing" is etched with ivy leaves, a motif beloved by the Victorians it seems, while the back is left blank, as is usually the case with bracelets of this type...

These mid-century earrings from Antonio Pineda are large and unusual...

Circa mid-century, this ring was produced by Antonio Pineda. It's a thick and substantial ring, with a superb modernist twist design. Hand-wrought with 970 silver, the center design appears to be gold plating over brass, providing a gorgeous contrast. Measures a size 7 3/4, but a jeweler can easily adjust the size slightly smaller or larger. Weight is 11.8 grams. Signed and hallmarked with the Antonio Taxco crown, the eagle assay 17, 970, and Hecho en Mexico Silver. In excellent v...

Maestro Mateo of Taxco is known among vintage jewelry collectors for his modernist, mostly brutalist, ring designs. His work is sought after for its quality, the beauty of the stones he incorporates in his pieces and the strong sense of tension that his rings exude. His career strides the divide between the so-called Eagle mark period and that of the T-marks and, in my experience, he is one of the very few silversmiths who used .950 alloys before they became the norm in the 1980s. When I came up...

A fine 14K yellow gold griffin stickpin by Riker. The eye is set with a bright faceted ruby and the claw grasps an old European cut diamond. As with all Riker pieces, the gemstones are of excellent quality. This stick pin could be worn as is, or converted to a ring or necklace charm. The reverse is stamped with Riker's hallmark.

• America, circa 1880
• Head, 5/8" x 1/2"; overall length, 2-1/2"
• 1.8 grams
• Approximate diamond weight: .05 carat

A nice pair of mid-century Mexican sterling silver cufflinks, the triangular faces set with amethysts carved to depict an ancient Aztec mask. The style of carving suggests either Abraham Paz or Fred Davis as the likely maker. The backs are marked "Plata Sterling 925".

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: faces, 11/16" x 11/16". Weight: 8.1 gr.

This whimsical fob is a sailor's hand-carved whale bone ivory fist, a common motif during the Victorian Period. The fob is comprised of a beautifully detailed hand with pointed index finger. The heart shaped base of the piece adds a touch of whimsy and romance. Possibly a 19th century Valentines Day gift? It is attached to an antique gold filled watch chain. Size: Fob-1 3/4". The watch chain with all of its'original findings is 7" long. Excellent condition.

Early pre-eagle large bracelet with a lacy flower form pattern. Circa 1940. Marked STERLING 925 TAXCO. With a darkened aged finish. It weighs 59 grams. This piece and most of the other Mexican silver I have listed came from one long time collector's estate. 4 inches wide in the front and with a wearable length (when the edges meet) of 7 inches. Excellent condition. No dents. Photos enlarged to show detail. Display form is life size.

A chic Victorian egg pendant of black onyx accented with 14K yellow gold Gothic-style strapwork set with natural seed pearls. The pearls, though small, have particularly nice luster. The simple decoration and strong color contrast makes this a very elegant piece to be worn as a single pendant or as a group of necklace charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1865. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" x 15/16".

A beautiful pair of Earrings by the famous Matilde Poulat who signed her work MATL. They feature her ornate silver work set with Coral cabochon stones in a swirl design. They measure 1 3/8" long by 5/8" wide and weigh 10.4 grams. In good condition with the typical screw backs. Hallmarked on one earring "MATL". These are a gorgeous pair of earrings by a important artist.

A pretty 10K yellow and rose gold half-hoop wedding band, the front decorated with finely engraved roses. The flower petals are worked in rose gold for added contrast and the entire design is recessed to prevent wear to the carving. The interior of the shank is marked "10K" and also has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition:excellent
• Dimensions: 7/32" wide tapering to 1/8" at the back
• Finger Size: 7-1/4
• Weight: 2.9 grams

Rings by Victoria of Taxco, one of the few ladies of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance that are known to us, are such rare finds, they actually touch upon the impossible. If one is really lucky, one might find a shadowbox example from her "angel" parure but I have never before seen a "mask" ring with her signature. Yet here it is - the black onyx "mask" set in elaborate sterling worked such as to represent a headdress and breastplate. Deeply etched and oxidized lines add detail while also best...

A retail shop in Taxco, according to Bille Hougart, Plateria Cortes is a name also found on some of Enrique Ledesma pieces, most probably because they were sold there. So my first thought when I saw this set of vintage Mexican silver surrealist earrings was that they might have been made by Ledesma. And then it all came back to me - a couple of years ago, I sold three sets of earrings in the same exact style (and actually even a pair like the one at hand) clearly signed for Sigi Pineda. Interest...

My second M Velazquez silver brooch for the day, this Mexican Deco repousse "portrait" I have never had (nor, I believe, seen) before. As opposed to the first figural pin, here the "sitter" is shown in profile, his likeness set in a raised frame against a stippled background. Velazquez's repoussage can be very dramatic and in the piece at hand it is also enhanced by deep chasing and oxidation which brings out the sculpturality of the face and the impressive headdress. The brooch measures 2 1/8"...

Spanish Colonial in inspiration with their heart-shaped wire-work and tiny little beading this set of sterling silver and amethyst dangle earrings is a Mexican Deco treasure. Securely set in their bezels, full of inclusions that shroud their depths in mystery, the stones are carved in the shape of leaves which hang off richly colored amethyst cabs. Big, bold, beautiful yet also so romantic and full of nostalgia. Measuring an impressive 2” long by 1” wide the earrings weigh 20.6 grams (for th...

One of the best "manufacturers" of silver jewelry and holloware in Peru Industria Peruana created some amazing "Inca Revival" (if I am permitted the term) pieces around the middle of the 20th c. when Graziella Laffi was also active. Their designs are beautifully executed with crisp detail and careful finishing and very often it is Peru's rich history that provided the motifs. The necklace at hand with its three "Inca cat" links is also adorned with deep green/blue stone disks set as the felines'...

A fine Victorian 14K gold stick pin in the form of a sword. The ornate hilt is bead-set with seed pearls and old European cut emeralds. The emeralds are of very fine quality, with excellent color. The back has a small bale that can be attached to a safety pin and chain, if desired. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: hilt, 7/8” x 3/4"; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 2.5 grams. Approximate Total Emerald Weight: .2 carat.

This past year seems to have been a Carmen Beckmann year for One Good Eye Silver. And even though I cannot claim it was because of planning, it has not been entirely out of luck either. One of the few female contributors to Mexico’s 20th c Silver Renaissance that we know of, Beckmann’s jewelry are works of a confident designer, impeccably finished and at her best moments, incredibly creative as well. In the ring presented here I see a marrying of ancient motifs and modernist sensitivity as t...

Rare to find and quintessentially Mexican Deco, especially if we are looking at the Mexico City school repousse pieces, these sterling silver rings with their carved stone "masquettes" are the dedicated collector's dream. Yet you don't have to be a collector to enjoy their unique character. What always attracted me to them is their "Arts and Crafts" style silver work which allows you to follow the maestro's creative journey by tracing the marks his/her tools left on the precious metal. Coveted a...

Offered on consignment... Circa mid-century, here is a large stunning amethyst ring which I believe is from Mexico. It is unmarked. Tested to be 940 silver, so greater than sterling 925. It is a magnificent ring, reminiscent of the work of Fred Davis and Abraham Paz. The amethyst is a gorgeous old stone with quartz marbling, natural inclusions, and lots of character. The stone is free of any flea bites, cracks, or chips. The split shank band has never been sized, and it's measures 7.5 on a...

Circa pre-1948, this large sterling silver brooch was produced by Doris Silver / Corpus Artisans. It's a highly detailed exquisitely crafted pin with a floral design. Measures 3" tall, 2 1/2" wide. Weight is 24.7 grams. Signed and hallmarked "Doris Silver Corpus Artisans Mexico". In excellent vintage condition. Pin closes with a roller.

This mid-century pin is the work of Los Castillo. It's a striking modernist design which is composed of two pieces connected with a rivet. The bottom hands and body swings freely with movement. Hand-wrought with intricate detail.

Measures 2 3/4" x 1 3/8".

Weight is 17.3 grams.

Signed and hallmarked "Los Castillo Taxco", with the eagle assay 15 and the design # 136.

In excellent vintage condition. Pin closes with a rolling C clasp.

Circa mid-century, these earrings are the work of Salvador Vaca Teran. Teran worked for William Spratling before leaving to work with his cousins at Los Castillo - creating many of their earlier designs. These earrings are a perfect example of his distinct abstract designs, biomorphic and modernist. Measures 1 5/16" at the widest part. Weight is 18 grams. Signed and hallmarked "Salvador" in script, and "Sterling Mexico", along with the design # 144. Collector quality. Scre...

Circa 1950's, this belt buckle is was produced by Antonio Pineda. I have never seen this one before, and it's quite similar to one which William Spratling designed. Antonio Pineda began his career working for William Spratling. It's hand-wrought with criss-crossing lines which are deeply carved with oxidized recesses.

Measures 2 5/8" x 15/16". I believe this will accommodate up to a 3/4" belt.

Weight is 34.9 grams.

Signed and hallmarked with the Antonio Taxco cro...

Circa mid-century, this necklace is exquisitely hand-wrought by noted Taxco silversmith Beto. Deeply carved swirling silver panels alternate with polished half-cylinder shaped amethysts. The stones are gorgeous, with natural inclusions and quartz marbling. Measures 15" closed, wearable length. Weight is 52.7 grams. Signed and hallmarked "Beto 925 Taxco GRO Sterling Hecho en Mexico". In excellent vintage condition. Clasp is tight and secure.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold and ruby heart-shaped love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text...

Not much is known - if anything at all - about Ars Plata whose signature is found on the Mexican silver and amethyst dangle earrings at hand. Bille Hougart lists an "Art Plat." in his book on Mexican silver hallmarks but I am not sure the two workshops / retailers (?) are the same. This lack of information is part of the field's reality yet it is always exciting to find a name not often encountered. Especially if it is stamped on beautifully made, slick jewelry like this set ever so reminiscent ...

A contemporary of Matilde Poulat's, maestro M. Velazquez also worked in Mexico City and created jewelry primarily in the repousse style associated with the capital and Matl, its most famous practitioner. Velazquez was a true master of his art - his jewelry is bold and his repoussage confident, sculptural and nicely finished. The inspiration for the fish brooch at hand was obviously an ancient Maya or Aztec glyph or carving. The hand-hammered body is here deeply etched for detail and subsequently...

Often referred to as the "Spratling of Peru", Italian-born Graziella Laffi came to be associated with the country's most innovative design in jewelry and hollowware in the 1950s. Just like Spratling did in Mexico, Laffi turned to Peru's rich archeological past and its vibrant folk culture for inspiration. Her re-interpretations of ancient Inca motifs in silver, copper and enamel are avidly sought after by collectors today for their creative spirit and exceptional craftsmanship. The long dangle e...

A pretty shell cameo of a young woman set in a particularly nice 10K yellow gold frame. The carving is well done, making good use of the color subtleties in the shell. The rose motif of the frame echoes the flowers carved into the cameo. The back retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The reverse is stamped with the “ESEMCO” mark for Shiman Jewelry Co. and also "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no cracking. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-15/16” (exclu...

Gorgeous vintage statement necklace by Mimi di Niscemi, with faux pearls strung in a collar with monofilament, with a very big centerpiece in goldtone cast metal in the form of a flower, and hook clasp and extender chain. Marked MIMI DI N and dated 1972. The pearls are acrylic. Excellent condition. Display form is life size. About 1 5 to 15 1/2 inches wearable length and the center is 2 1/2 inches long.

Wonderful Staret piece! Square rhinestones of various sizes set in silver color metal, clear and sparkling, every single one. Heavy and chunky. Stamped Staret on the back. 3 3/4" wide, 1 7/8" high. Great reminder of the 1940's.

Very chic unusual vintage 1970s French long sautoir necklace with double snake chains in dark goldtone metal, and stations with large translucent tortoise Lucite rings with large rhinestone balls with brilliant clear rhinestones, and a characteristically French S hook clasp. The rings reference French Art Deco glass rings found on necklaces from the 1920s and 1930s. 33 inches wearable length and 1 1/16 inches wide at the rings. Excellent condition and all stones are very bright and better than t...

A good pair of pre-War Mexican silver cufflinks in a traditional strapwork motif. The square faces are joined to spherical backs. The surface retains an attractive old patina. One cufflink is marked “Sterling Taxco”, thus pre-dating the eagle system of marks introduced in 1948.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; old patina. Size: 5/8” x 5/8”. Weight: 10.0 grams.

From his first design period, with hallmarks dating 1940- 46, this is a silver conch pin designed by William Spratling and featured in books on Mexican silver. Measuring 2 3/4" by 2", weighs 21 grams and is signed as shown. The pin clasp may have been replaced . One of Spratling's favorite designs.

A classic pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces topped with platinum. The rectangular faces have canted corners and are decorated with engine-turned engraving. The solid connectors are marked “PL ON 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32” x 7/16”. Weight: 4.0 gr.

A fun Victorian 14K yellow gold stickpin in the form of an oyster, complete with a small natural pearl resting on the lip of the oyster's shell. The surface is hand engraved to mimic the roughness of an oyster shell. The reverse is stamped "14K" and has an indistinct maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: head, 1/2" x 13/16"; overall length, 2-1/2". Weight: 1.6 grams.

Fleshy, slick and so mod this set of vintage Mexican Antonio Pineda earrings is wrought in his favorite fine (.970) silver alloy in the form of heart-shaped leaves. Antonio's jewelry, no matter how many elements combined in a design, if unfailingly sculptural and shamelessly tactile. It is very difficult to restrain oneself and not keep passing one's fingers over the masterfully worked, perfectly finished silver. Measuring 1 5/16" long by 5/8" wide the earrings weigh 14.4 grams (for the set) an...

A lovely, delicate 10K white gold filigree ring set with a buff-cut amethyst. Buff-cut stones are somewhat uncommon with their smooth domed tops and faceted bottoms, but were popular in the Edwardian era. The shank is marked "10K."

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, minute surface wear to stone visible under 10x magnification; sharp details on setting. Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 7/8". Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 2.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.0 cts.

Very much in the style associated with Matilde Poulat and often referred to as "Mexico City repousse" this sweet little silver "serpent scales" bracelet is adorned with an amethyst cabochon in its central station. An early example of this "school", it is an honest attempt to emulate the "grand dame" of Mexican silver jewelry albeit in a more demure, smaller scale than most of Matl's work. I like to think of its maker as a young apprentice, impressed by Poulat's genius, patiently working on impro...

Fortuno Mota, a talented Taxco maestro who in the 1950s and 1960s produced many of Antonio Pineda’s pieces, signs this stunning set of modernist dangle earrings. Crafted in Antonio’s signature fine .970 alloy, the pair reminds me of slender flutes as they elegantly hang off geometric stations with stone inlay. The inlay and the beads in which the dangles end seem to be made of azur-malachite with the second component responsible for the predominantly green and brown hues. When the set came t...

Unique cone shaped deep Black Onyx stones are set along a swirl of smaller silver cones to create these fantastic modernist earrings in a style known as "Gladiator". Beautifully designed the bottom end of the earring curves slightly under your ear lobe. They measure 1" long by 3/4" wide and together they weigh 15.4 grams. Hallmarked Hecho en Mexico with the eagle stamp on one earring and 970 with the Antonio Taxco Crown on the other. They are in good condition with no signs of damage or repair ...

A handsome pair of silver double-sided cufflinks in the form of horseshoes. The faces are nicely detailed and the cufflinks have good weight. The connectors are marked "935", indicating a purity slightly higher than sterling silver, and also have an unidentified maker's mark "MV."

• Origin: Continental Europe, probably Switzerland, ca 1950.
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 5/8" x 5/8".
• Weight: 8.5 grams.

A figural repousse Mexican Deco brooch in sterling silver this "portrait" piece bears the signature of early Mexico City maestro M. Velazquez. Over the years of my love affair with vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I have come to know and appreciate Velazquez's work for its "earthiness", its craftsmanship and the interesting designs he created. The specific "mask" motif I have had a few times in the past in necklace, ring and brooch forms but always anonymous. Often described as an Aztec or Maya "...

Big statement vintage 1960s mixed metals copper with brass appliques and green onyx stones hinged bangle bracelet by Mexican maker Casa Maya. Marked MAYA MEXICO. With pin closure. The copper has a darkened decorative finish. The green cylindrical stones are held with bolts. 2 1/8 inches wide and 7 inches inside circumference. The inside diameters are 2 3/8 and 2 1/8 inches. The outside is in excellent condition; the inside has wear and scratching but this does not show when the piece...

A fine pair of modernist sterling silver cufflinks featuring South Sea black pearls by Ted Lowy. The pearls have dark gray body color with very pronounced and desirable peacock overtones in rose, green and purple. The backs are marked “Sterling/Ted Lowy”. Lowy was active in South Orange, NJ during the 1960’s and 70’s. He is still living, now aged 93. He was not especially prolific and his pieces rarely come on the market. He exhibited at New York’s Cooper-Hewitt National Design M...

When life hands you lemons, you make lemonade and when it hands you an orphan cuff link, you have it converted into a ring. I have always been very partial to pieces of jewelry that would normally come in pairs but lost their partner over the course of their adventurous life. Conversions, though a dedicated, purist collector’s nightmare, are to me a welcome way of prolonging the journey of an otherwise shunned piece by providing it with a new purpose, a new opportunity to be enjoyed and admire...

Less-is-more is definitely the way Carmen Beckmann chose to go with this vintage Mexican sterling silver and amethyst ring. Set in a disk adorned with overlay and oxidation, it brings to mind a perfectly round stone as it touches the water causing it to ripple. Easy to wear whatever the occasion and a beautiful example of Mexican modernist jewelry. Currently a sz 6 US (easily resizable by your jeweler) the ring has a face that is 7/8” in diameter and it weighs 8.3 grams. It is marked with make...